The BBC documentary on David Livingstone has just finished.
The only part of the only interview with someone I know was when Jack Thomson (rightly) described some of Livingstone’s flaws.
The description of Livingstone’s journeys was useful. Where the documentary was misleading was in the ‘what happened next’ section. There was one sentence stating that the UK government asked the top guy in Zanzibar to order a stop to the slave trade. The implication left was that it was a political / diplomatic agreement.
In reality the story of how slavery came to an end in what is now Malawi was complicated and fascinating. The people who went to Malawi, inspired by David Livingstone, were absolutely central to what happened. The proclamation by the Mufti of Zanzibar (against slavery) was treated as a kind of amusing joke by slave leaders on the shores of Lake Malawi.
When I met the BBC team I did ask what they had read of Robert Laws and the others who followed Livingstone. I thought they looked a bit blank. In fact, the conclusion of the programme was that Livingstone’s legacy was colonial injustice described as being just as bad as the slavery. Hmmmm. East Coast African slavery was the worst and beyond horrific.
Colonialism was hardly perfect, even in Nyasaland. It did play a part in ending slavery. In (what is now) Malawi there was a growing momentum brought about by a small number of missionaries following Livingstone and Scottish traders (in the tradition of David Livingstone’s ‘commerce’) and others including a heroic off duty British officer and finally British officialdom. Internal British politics, a private (trader v slaver) war that developed to an ‘official’ war, British-Portuguese diplomacy, divisions within and between Scots, missionaries, Portuguese, English & Scottish and tribes all played their part.
The ending of the genocidal wars between tribes around the same time was also a direct result of the work that Livingstone began.
The programme gave no hint of the reality of what happened next. Certainly, it is true that Livingstone himself was personally deeply flawed. Many who followed had their own share of contributions to mistakes and errors. At the same time extraordinary people helped to shape and change in deep and profound ways.
It is true that much of the good achieved in the early decades after Livingstone were lost – but not all, and not those which were most fundamental.
Although I dislike the word, I am going to describe Likoma Island as one of Malawi’s ‘iconic’ destinations. I went as far as having a look at an online thesaurus for an alternative to the word iconic but have decided to stick with it.
If you tell a Malawian or an expat ‘Malawi person’ that you are going to Likoma Island then they are likely to react in a similar to way to that of a Russian when Odessa is mentioned. [I once read that if you wanted to make a Russian smile you should mention Odessa - I tried it a couple of times and sure enough...].
One reason for Likoma Island’s status is its place in the history of Malawi. It has a huge Anglican Cathedral. Unbeknown to many, the very first missionaries to come to Malawi with David Livingstone (after his first explorations) were not fellow Scots and Presbyterians but English Anglicans! It just so happens that the extraordinary Free Church of Scotland mission in Livingstonia (in the north) and to a lesser extent the established Church of Scotland mission (in the south) learned from some of the mistakes made by the early Anglican missionaries. Getting drawn too directly into politics – even if that ‘politics’ is the direct opposition to the slave trade – does not mix well with missionary activity. The Scots learned, from the Anglicans, that it was necessary to play the long game against slavery no matter how offended they were by the evils they were confronted with. This is a huge and complicated subject and I should avoid being drawn into it now. The main point I have taken from the Anglican experience was as mentioned above in the context of how the Scots built their longer term relationships with the various tribes who were in conflict with each other and implicated in slaving.
I would write more about the Anglican history of Malawi and about Likoma Island’s history – but unfortunately I am a bit vague on it. I need to read more and then write. It is 150 years now since David Livingstone brought the Anglicans with him as the Archbishop of Canterbury was here on a visit last week or the week before.
Although one of Malawi’s most famous, and one of Malawi’s most exotic, destinations, Likoma Island is probably visited less than any other place in the same category within the country. That is hardly surprising given the extra effort (and time) or money required to get there.
Likoma Island is an island in three different ways. Firstly, it is an island of Malawian territory within Mozambican waters. Secondly, it is an island of Anglicanism within the wider Presbyterian sea that is Malawi (we shall ignore the approximately five million and one other denominations that have set up an outpost in Malawi). Thirdly, it is an island in the conventional sense of the word.
Going to Likoma Island by boat does or should require some thought and planning, including contingency considerations. If you don’t think of this as all part of the adventure then you may find yourself at a psychological disadvantage – go on a railway holiday in Switzerland instead. The Ilala goes up and down the Lake once a week. Getting on and off Likoma Island on the Ilala is not quite like getting on and off the tube in the London Underground. Whether you arrive on Likoma Island when the Ilala is on it’s northerly or southerly route will influence how long you can stay or are forced to stay. The slight unreliability of the timetable is another factor. The Ilala was about 24 hours away from it’s schedule on our trip but I am told that that is very unusual and it is normally only several hours away from the timetable.
Coming from the south (and Monkey Bay) we had the option of about two days on Likoma Island, or about seven days if we headed north to get off at Nkhata Bay, or about nine days so we can head back to where our car would be parked. We decided on going for the ‘about nine days’ option. We thought that that would give us time to stop and relax on the beach and perhaps get some reading and writing done – exactly the kind of holiday we are not used to but which we suspected might be good for us. I also had half a mind on the possibility of learning to scuba dive at the PADI centre on the island.
If you do not have very small children with you further interesting options to consider are trips to Chizumulu Island, Mozambique or even Nkhata Bay. We thought about Nkhata Bay and Chizumulu Island but when I considered the night-time boarding and disembarking I thought it was too much to do with small children.
Coming to Likoma Island from the north gives you different options.
As it turned out there was less time for reading and writing than I had thought. This must have something to do with having a baby boy on the trip. David is a lot more demanding of attention than was Ruth at the same stage. We spent the first two and last one night in a cool and nice chalet on the beach. We spent the middle six nights in our large tent under some Mango trees on the beach. When moving from the chalet to the tent I did wonder if I was mad. Instead the tent turned out to be fine. I pitched it for where I considered that there would be maximum shade in the afternoon – when we expected the little ones to have their naps.
About half way through our time there I decided to go for the scuba diving. There were two fully qualified dive instructors, one from England and the other from South Africa. They mainly serviced the whims of the guests at the neighbouring Kaya Mawa exclusive resort in the next bay. As we did not fancy paying $500 each, or whatever it is, per night, we thought we would try our luck with our tent on the beach at Mango Drift.
I took to scuba diving like a duck to water – or that is what it felt like to me. Perhaps it was the very high quality one on one tuition or perhaps it was the relaxed atmosphere but at every stage I thought “that is going to be a very hard skill to learn” but then I seemed to get it first time almost every time…
One of my ‘problems’ was that I did not bother shaving at the beginning of the trip so my face was not smooth enough to keep the water out of the mask. Fortunately, it turned out that I was not that bothered by water in my mask and eyes and I soon mastered how to get it out of my mask underwater.
The beginning of the course is all about learning what horrible things can go wrong when deep underwater. I think it is best if your reaction to all these terrible thoughts is somewhere between sobering and somewhere short of panic. I think I always considered when practising the necessary skills in shallow water that I was there, in shallow water, in no danger. However, I found it quite amazing how my mind would just go blank when underwater. Something would be explained to me above water “fine” and then I would go underwater and he would signal to me to practice the skill and I would spend what seemed like ages just staring at him while trying to remember what he had just said. I think if I had felt rushed or concerned during those endless seconds of blankness then the course would have been a lot harder for me. Fortunately my instructor did tell me that it was perfectly normal for people to just go blank when underwater.
Some people think I am slow on the uptake at even the best of times – underwater I take silent pauses to a new dimension. Strangely, when what he had said to me did come back to me I tended to get it right first time.
I did write a blog post on why Lake Malawi is the best place (in the world) to learn to scuba dive. If you want to read more then please have a look at that. In the end I did qualify as an Open Water PADI diver which qualifies me to dive, with another diver, to a depth of 18m.
There is not much more that I want to write about Likoma Island now. Interesting things could be said about 1/ the history, 2/ the extraordinary variety of birdlife (although most of the 400 species seen there are migratory), 3/ society there and how and why it may be a microcosm of some of the best of Malawi, 4/ Christianity on the island, 5/ the relationship with the nearby Mozambique shore and the travelers who pass this way and 6/ the island’s dependance on the Ilala, now running for sixty years. For these topics I will either need to read up a bit more or be in more of a writing frame of mind. For now I will try to leave it to the pictures.
It is quite a while since I wrote about the work of the full-time Prison Chaplain Rev Stanley Chimesya. This does not mean that I have lost touch with him or with seeing the work that he does in prisons. In fact I have continued to visit the main prison with him on a semi-regular basis.
A lot of westerners who like Malawi mention ‘the people’ as a prime reason for their love of Malawi. It is of course a very important factor, if not the most important factor in whether one enjoys a country or not. Actually, although I agree that Malawi is probably rightly thought of as the ‘Warm Heart of Africa’, I don’t tend to think of that as the primary reason for liking Malawi. However, it is probably the most important indirect reason for appreciating Malawi. I love the great outdoors, the ‘nature’ (as they say), the lake, the mountains and the wildlife in Malawi. Of course all of these things would be much harder to enjoy if the people surrounding you were a hassle to deal with. Malawians are usually the nicest people.
Still, despite that, the primary area of life in Malawi where ‘the people’ make a positive impact on the way I think about Malawi, is in prison. It is probably a blog post or three in itself to explain why. Malawian prisoners are not on the whole a self-pitying group of people. They don’t wear a badge of suffering on their shirts with appeals to help them in their plight. All I am trying to say in this paragraph is that the reasons why visiting prison in Malawi may have an impact on a western visitor are probably not the reasons that one would expect or guess. Although a very distinct and particular environment compared with any other, I do think that the good that you see inside Malawian prisons says a lot of good about Malawi. I don’t wish to either deny or address the negatives commonly associated with Malawian prisons. The one thing I would say is that the Malawian prisoners’ lives, given their circumstances, is a powerful testimony to the good that there is in the Malawian character. Every other westerner I have seen visiting a Malawian prison has been moved by the experience.
I wrote before in a previous blog entry that Rev Chimesya is the only full time prison chaplain in Malawi. That has been his choice. He seems very committed to his work and the welfare of those he helps. He could have taken the option of a regular minister and accepted a congregation (like most ministers) and continued as a part-time prison chaplain. The significance of him not having a congregation is that congregations will support their minister in ways that are critical for them and their families. Members of the congregation will visit their minister with gifts such as fruit and vegetables. This is part of how the African tradition of sharing works as far as the impact on a minister’s work is concerned. This and more has a big impact on the life, family and livelihood of a typical minister in the church. Traditions to do with sharing are often where misunderstandings between Malawians and westerners arise… The misunderstandings are on both sides and neither side is perfect. We come from very different worlds and we have very different virtues, problems and traditions.
Rev Chimesya does not have that support network because he does not have a congregation. He did not tell me that. I came to realise the implications of not having a congregation by observation of others and then by talking to him and asking him questions. It is thoughtless of me to have not thought seriously about this sooner. I think that like many people I spend more time thinking about my own problems and my own family than about obvious challenges that those round about face. I certainly feel very let down by people who have been my friends in the past and who should have realised how they could and should have helped in critical situations (not financial by the way – far more important than that).
I was thinking about his circumstances today and yesterday because Rev Chimesya is off to Lilongwe to do the final ten weeks of a diploma on Clinical Pastoral Education. This involves psycho-social and psycho-religious studies. It is to do with counseling for the most troubled people. Traveling back to see the family on a weekend or two within that ten weeks is not as simple a thing for someone in his situation as it might be for any rich westerner. His situation only dawned on me when I realised that I might not see him again before we are in Lilongwe ourselves catching an international flight. He stays in the Prison Chaplain’s Residence on Blantyre Mission between St Michael and All Angels Church and Phoenix School. He and his wife have three children aged about twenty, fifteen and ten. Rev Chimesya looks far too young to have a twenty year old child and I noticed in a very old poster of the Blantyre Synod clergy that as a young man he looked older than he does now…
Simple things like having enough petrol to visit a remote prison somewhere else in the Southern Region of Malawi are not necessarily simple issues here.
Yesterday when I realised that we would not see much more of Rev Chimesya before leaving we decided to accompany him on a visit to a young offenders institution about twelve miles outside of Blantyre. As it was on the way to Fisherman’s Rest we thought that we would stop there on the way back. Also on the way is a very old tree where David Livingstone stopped and rested on his way up to the Shire Highlands from the Shire Valley. The early Scottish missionaries had to take this route as they would meet waterfalls on the lower Shire and then have to dismantle their steamers (especially constructed for this purpose in places like Millwall) before reassembling them on the Upper Shire and then steaming on to the Lake.
The Young Offenders institution is called something like a Reformative Centre and is for boys aged between 7 (or 9) and 14. It does not come under the Malawi Prison’s Service but falls under the Ministry of Gender. It is for children from all over Malawi, not just the Southern Region, and they are treated as children, not simply as inmates. The offences of the children here are serious. There are only just over 50 children here and they are taught various skills including agriculture and some others which I cannot quite remember.
One aspect of life here that I noticed was that the children seemed typically Malawian, nice and friendly. I asked the member of staff who was giving us a tour about the behaviour of the children here. He said that they sometimes behaved well, and sometimes not. In general he said that 75% of them did not give real problems. I wondered how that would compare with well educated middle-class British school children…
We had a meeting with the children where Rev Chimesya handed out sweets as the children asked questions. It was fun and lively but none of them were remotely badly behaved or riotous. As we left at the end one of the boys tried to start singing a typical Malawian ‘goodbye’ song but others didn’t join in so there was a bit of an embarrassed reaction from the boys. It was not embarrassment that someone had tried to sing, but that they had not managed to get the Malawian equivalent of ‘Auld Lang Syne’ going. A moment or two later they tried to get it going again with more success this time.
After this we went for a meeting with Macleod, the director of human resources. I told him that for a few months I once lived on the Scottish island with the highest concentration of Macleods anywhere (Lewis and Harris). I told him however that in Scotland, Macleod is a more typical surname. Still, I am happy that many Malawians choose Scottish names for their first names.
On the way out I quizzed Rev Chimesya on how Malawians get their children to be so well behaved – even the worst of them. You rarely see Malawians speaking harshly to their children or giving them a smack. Still, Rev Chimesya did say, when I asked (as if I did not know), that smacks and corporal punishment are an approved part of the discipline process in Malawi. [Hardly surprising that Malawians go along with what the bible says on the discipline of children when you consider that about 80% of Malawians call themselves Christian]. Malawian children are very polite and respectful to visitors in their houses and they don’t make a noise over the adults talking. Similarly, they sit quietly through long meetings. I do not agree with the view of some westerners that Malawian children are docile because as babies they were carried around on their mothers backs. I think Malawian children are just as playful, fun and lively as you would expect of any normal child. Malawian children certainly spend a lot more time playing outdoors than many of their counterparts in colder western countries.
It was interesting to see that Malawian children in a young offenders institution seem as nice as any other Malawian youngster. Sometimes when in a different ‘culture’ there are differences that I notice that I find hard to understand or explain. Other westerners are much better at assessing Malawian society. I have noticed that many westerners who come to Malawi on a two week trip are able to summarise Malawian society with great confidence, clarity and authority. Typically, these are people who have lived in their own country, or the west, all their lives. They do not speak Chechewa. I on the other hand was brought up in Malawi and have lived here again as an adult for several months. I read and have read a lot about Malawi. My father was steeped in Malawian life as he is a fluent and expert Chechewa speaker. He worked in the villages as a minister and was involved in all aspects of the lives of ordinary people. Older people come up to me to tell me that my father took part in the life of the church just like a Malawian minister. Much of what I understand about Malawi comes from discussions with my dad. Truly, these five minute visitors to Malawi who can asses Malawian society with such authority and expertise are indeed the most insightful of experts. I am full of admiration for them. They understand so much more than I do.
Anyway, getting back to my conversations with Rev Chimesya. We discussed a lot more and I discovered aspects of his work that I had not realised. Still, we were unable to solve all the mysteries of life.
After visiting the young offenders reformative centre we stopped at the historic tree. We saw that one of the names of the tree is Chipembere (Chechewa for rhinoceros). Amelia thought that that was appropriate as it did look very wrinkly and old. It certainly looked old enough to have provided shelter to explorer and missionary, Dr. David Livingstone.
After this we headed on to Fisherman’s Rest. Ruth was very keen to show Rev Chimesya the swing and to get him to push her on it. Part of the reason for visiting Fisherman’s Rest is that they also visit prisons and we have made a contact between what they do and what Rev Chimesya does. I hope that mutual benefit comes from this contact. It is certainly a very restful and peaceful place.
We then headed back to Blantyre. I may see Rev Chimesya one more time before he leaves for Lilongwe tomorrow afternoon. I have agreed to go to ‘church’ with him tomorrow inside Chichiri Prison.
You can find a link to prisoners singing here.
POINT OF CLARIFICATION
For the avoidance of doubt I wish to make the following point. When Rev STANLEY Chimesya arrived at the DR DAVID LIVINGSTONE tree he did NOT say “Dr Livingstone’s Tree I Presume.”
I was very sorry to hear of the death of an American man killed in Majete Game Reserve by an elephant. The incident occurred on the 7th September. He was a missionary in the far south of the country. His name was Daryl Martin, he was 44, and he is survived by his wife Rebekah, who was with him visiting Majete, and four children.
Daryl worked for Iris Malawi which is an American / Canadian organisation. They were helping people by hosting medical teams among other activities. I heard that the family were about to leave for Cambodia to work with girls trafficked for sex or with the families.
Over the last few days and since hearing about this, the tragedy has been uppermost in my mind. The reason for that is that Malawi is small and the number of people who visit each of Malawi’s ‘main’ visitor destinations is tiny. We were in Majete recently and met the people who will have had to deal with the aftermath of this situation. Among the Azungu (westerners) in southern Malawi the number of degrees of separation is normally two. When visting Mvabvi Game Reserve we stayed with near neighbours to this mission station. While in Majete for three days I was of course on alert the whole time because of the known dangers.
Being Christian people they will not view his death as the end or as a final goodbye. That is the ultimate comfort for the family and the colleagues. Still, the pain will be close to unbearable.
Before going any further let me quote from the Iris Malawi website:
‘Daryl put his faith into action. He was involved in restoring boreholes in the villages so that people would have clean water. He hosted medical teams, particularly eye medical teams, so that the people of southern Malawi would have healthier eyes. He himself became an experienced “lay” physician with the ability to diagnose patients with trachoma, so that by appropriate treatment, blindness would be prevented. Also very importantly, Daryl trained Malawians in trades such as chicken and crop farming so that families would have greater sustainability.’
Given the example of the kind of work he did, his death will not be in vain. He is not the first missionary, or medical missionary, to die in Malawi. He is only the most recent. Easy comments about ‘not in vain’ may not help the family now, but reading the history of his predecessors, including of those who did die, will help over time. I mean that seriously.
Looking at the Iris Malawi website and following links I read about children trafficked for sex, and their families, in Cambodia. This must be linked to what I heard verbally about plans to go to Cambodia. He also seems to have been an accomplished photographer. Looking at his photographs on his website I see that he was a very good photographer.
He died while attempting to photograph hippos (I had earlier said that he was photographing elephants but I have been corrected – see comments below), and he was away from his car. I spoke to someone working in Majete over the phone to confirm the accuracy of what I had heard verbally in Blantyre. Many elephants in Majete and Liwonde National Park are veterans of animal-human conflict. They are very dangerous.
[2 October update. Please see in the comments section below for for important points and links, submitted by Daryl's family.]
My favourite Malawi guide book is the Bradt Guide. It has a lot of interesting and useful information. Unfortunately I think that the the book gets it wrong in the section on the dangers of wild animals. Reading that section you will get the impression that the danger from wild animals is often exaggerated. It is not. I plan to write about that and explain the subject a bit more in a separate blog post.
You can google the Iris Malawi website for more information on Daryl and his life and work. You can send a donation through them to help his widow. Please see the relevant links submitted by Daryl’s relatives in the comments section below.
On Sunday we attended St Michael and All Angels Church on Blantyre Mission. This is the extraordinary building that was once described as the only permanent church between the Nile and the Zambezi. It was extraordinary because it was designed and built by a man, DC Scott, who had no architectural knowledge or experience and had never laid a brick in his life before starting working something over 120 years ago.
We attended the 8.30 am English language service (that follows the 6.30am Chechewa service and precedes the 10.30am Chechewa service). One good thing about a service like this is that because it is followed by another service in the same building the service is therefore limited to only two hours. In Malawi when you go to church you throw away your watch.
As usual the service was packed full with Malawians and the only other white people I could see were called Amelia, Ruth and David. Also as usual in this kind of environment one does not feel at all self conscious or out of place due to ones colour. Actually, I have noticed that in the cities the only people who give you a second and curious look are other whites.
Perhaps one reason why it seems so familiar is that the service seemed very traditional Scottish presbyterian to me. Men, in general but not as a rule, wore suits. The hymns, order of service, intimations and style reminded me very much of an old fashioned, traditional and conservative Church of Scotland. There were no guitars. It was not happy clappy. You could feel that you were surrounded by pillars of the local (Scottish) establishment. In fact it is quite a well off and middle class church with a lot of senior people in business, finance, law and administration. Many of the hymns and responses to the sermon for example reminded me of a church in Aberdeen called Gilcomston South.
Even the humour was Scottish….
The man leading the service had, to put it politely, a dry sense of humour. The closest we got to ‘happy clappy’ was a youth choir, the leader of the choir spoke for a couple of minutes. He was eloquent and confident and wearing a stylish suit. He started off by telling us that “I am your son and you are my parents”. I didn’t listen to anything else he said. The funny bit was when he sat down and the man leading the service said “You should have been more precise in your introduction. You are our prodigal son.”
I thought it was very funny as did the congregation. His other dry contributions about other contributors I will avoid repeating (in order to protect the innocent). Whatever you do don’t believe anyone who says that Malawians don’t appreciate a dry and sarcastic sense of humour.
The sermon was conducted not by the minister but I think by one of the elders. This church has at least five or six Sunday services and each church has ‘daughter’ prayer houses. Given that there are more churches than ministers you can understand that the minister does not take every service.
The sermon was on ‘God’s love’ and was based on a biblical text. It was interesting and full of practical applications for the congregation. He brought in various other texts to support his argument. It was both intellectual, though easily understandable, and practical. He challenged the congregation over whether they visited the sick and the prisoners and specifically over whether we had bought a CD produced by the prison choir… (He made various argued theological points from his text that I don’t remember – I just remember some of the practical challenges that he issued.)
Afterwards I bumped into three American visitors – so we were not the only foreigners there (sometimes it’s hard to see everyone). They are medical students from Virginia (and Roman Catholics) and here in Malawi to explore possible links between their medical school and Malawian clinics or hospitals. I gave them a brief tour including an ascent onto the roof during the following Chechewa service. We agreed to meet later in the week to discuss their ideas.
Knowing, as I do, traditional, conservative, evangelical, Scottish presbyterians (who like to critique sermons) – I thought this service would, broadly speaking, meet with their approval.
I cannot say that this is a typical Malawian or even St Michael’s service. Strands of Scottishness do run through this country however and sometimes, just sometimes, you see a lot of them together.
I have decided that this blog post could be misleading without reading this: http://destinationmalawi.wordpress.com/2011/07/31/important-point-from-blantyre-malawi-history/
The best book to read, that I am aware of, for a quick history, is ‘Cape Maclear’ by PA Cole-King. There may still be a copy for sale in Mandala House upstairs in the library. Otherwise you can turn to the much longer and weightier ‘Laws of Livingstonia’ and ‘Livingstone’s Lake’.
Robert Laws, possibly the greatest missionary to set foot in Malawi and the leader of the Livingstonia mission, set up base at Old Livingstonia (Cape Maclear) before moving on to Bandawe and Livingstonia.
These three books are my main sources for this blog post.
David Livingstone first set foot on the shores of Lake Malawi in 1859, 150 years to the day before I last stood on the shores of Lake Malawi before my last return to the UK. It was also 150 years to the day before Ian Tallach and his new bride Carrie began their honeymoon on Lake Malawi. [I was only on their honeymoon for just over 24 hours].
Like me, David Livingstone decided that he needed to spend more time exploring the Lake and returned two years later. So now, two years later is the time of my exploration and 150 years from the time when David Livingstone was looking for a natural harbour from where a mission on the Lake could be based. On his return to Britain Livingstone says “we rounded the grand mountainous promontory, which we named Cape Maclear, after our excellent friend Sir Thomas Maclear the Astronomer Royal..” and he further refers to “the great harbour to the west of Cape Maclear” which would “form a magnificent harbour.”
David Livingstone’s brother was there and he refers to burying grounds that in some way impressed him and the people of a neighbouring village who were friendly and brought food for sale. The interesting point about that is that the first Europeans to make a base there fourteen years later found no villagers but did find the burial grounds.David Livingstone never returned to Cape Maclear but did see it from higher ground in 1863 and in his last great journey in 1866 he passed the ‘base’ of Cape Maclear (I presume that that means the part of the Cape Maclear peninsula attached to the ‘mainland’ – to the west of Monkey Bay on the way to Salima?).
It was when passing Cape Maclear for the last time that Livingstone met an Arab slaver with slaves. It was this Arab who spread fear among Livingstone’s followers over the danger of the Ngoni. It was that day that some of Livingstone’s followers left him and returned to Zanzibar with the false and self serving story that Livingstone had been murdered.
In 1867 a search party sponsored by the Royal Geographical Society stopped at Cape Maclear just after they had established that the reports of David Livingstone’s murder nearby were false. Faulkner describes meeting a crocodile on the beach and says of the hills behind which he attempted and failed to climb saying “I never saw such huge masses of rock piled up in the way they are here.” He describes the “magnificent” lake and the smooth and blue waters within the natural harbour in contrast to the “fury” along the western shore. From as high as he could get on the hill he describes watching his ship ‘The Search’ attempting, and failing, to sail out of the calm waters in the narrow gap between the mainland and Domwe island. How did he know that they were not trying to leave without him? Also on the search party Young said “for a settlement nothing more could be desired” and Faulkner regretted that “…we were to leave this beautiful lake, perhaps for ever.”
After this search mission the next foreign (foreign European that is) visitors arrived eight years later. Without doubt Arab visitors would have continued to pass that way ‘on business’.
The next group of Scottish visitors came to stay, at least for a while. They included former slaves freed by David Livingstone. This was the group, inspired after the real death of Livingstone, who contained the first members of the two great missions – Livingstonia (from the Free Church of Scotland) and Blantyre (from the Church of Scotland). These two groups began modern health, education and (non slave trade) industry in Malawi. They played the crucial roles in defeating the slave trade, halting Portuguese colonial ambitions, dragging the British in (largely against their will) to provide protection from slavers and Portugal, and in bringing peace between waring genocidal tribes. These elements, including much more comprehensive education than practiced by other missions brought about the beginning of a Malawian national consciousness. Of course, it is much more complicated than that. There were a lot of failures, setbacks, scandals and mistakes. On the whole, and learning the lessons of the Anglican mission failures, they refused to do the job of fighting the slavers directly or applying political control and administration. They were however a constant thorn in the side of the Foreign Office and later the colonial authorites.I almost forgot – the missionaries also translated the bible and brought Christianity to Malawi. That and the defeat of the slave trade were their primary motivations.
Now, I can’t be bothered to write anymore just now so will just have to stop here – for now. As I say, you really need to buy the books.
If I continue with further installments you will read about….
The curious price paid for the land by the mission
A mauling by a leopard
The Roman Catholic on the presbyterian mission
The English… on a Scottish outpost
Death and disease – the personal prices paid by the missionaries
The first convert – and his achievements
The first circumnavigation of the Lake
The Elephant on Elephant Island (Mumbo Island)
The first Roman Catholic to die a violent death in Malawi
How Robert Laws nearly walked all the way ‘downstream’ to the coast for the post (only to be passed by ‘the postman’ on the other side of the Zambezi).
Bad news from Blantyre
Rules of engagement with slave drivers
The moving away of the mission and the arrival of tourists
The price paid by the government for the purchase of the land – and why
The flying boat service from the UK to Cape Maclear
The new Irish clinic at Cape Maclear opening decades after the Scottish one closed
The origins of Chembe village
and much much more – of course.
This morning we went to St Columba CCAP church. We have been meaning to go for a while as my father was one of the minister’s here 30 years ago.
We arrived just as the 6.30am Chechewa service was ending. Our English service began about 9. It is a large church, one of the largest in Blantyre and was full. The interesting thing about these English language services is that there are very few international people there. I think we were the only white faces.
St Columba is up at the ‘back’ or southern end of Blantyre near Soche Mountain. Most of the rest of Blantyre is really down the hill from here and it’s quite a good view over the city.
In common with other visitors we had to go up to the front to introduce ourselves. The minister told the congregation that my father had taught him at Kapeni. There was / is a college there. Chief Kapeni was the man who gave the Scottish missionaries some land which became the mission and the birthplace of Blantyre (and a large part of the making of modern Malawi). My family have been associated with Malawi for about 1/3 of the time since then.
Late in the afternoon we went to a Mountain Club of Malawi event at Michiru Forest Reserve (or conservation area). I regret not spending more time so far with the Mountain Club. Recently they have climbed a remote and beautiful mountain in Mozambique, had a ‘Sapitwa Sleepover’ (staying overnight on the top of the highest mountain in this part of Africa with one of the world’s greatest views at sunrise), and done a Majete crossover (a two day trek across one of the game reserves).
We are thinking of buying walking boots and back-packs for carrying toddlers / babies from someone in the Mountain Club of Malawi.
We also saw the Manners, an Australian family and together explored the rough back roads down the side of Michiru Mountain out to Chileka. I am not sure it is what they expected when they set out for an afternoon drive. Those groovy roads are interesting. 4WD high sided vehicles only…and it is still fun.
Tomorrow Ruth goes to Nursery School at Phoenix. She is very excited about that.
On Skype this evening and thinking of watching a violent (I expect) French film we downloaded on iTunes. Anything but Hollywood. I like European cinema, somehow it gets into life in a way that Hollywood ‘cartoons’ does not.
Update – just finished watching Mesrine. It was violent – but not a good film. I think it’s the worst continental film I’ve seen.
Cape Maclear is on Lake Malawi. It is at the end of a large peninsula towards the southern end of the Lake. It is also the place where there was the first settlement by Scottish missionaries in Malawi. The first missionaries after David Livingstone chose Cape Maclear as it has a natural harbour caused by the shape of the islands at the end of the peninsula. They had brought a ‘self assembly’ steam boat at Millwall in London and assembled this boat at the mouth of the Zambezi River on the Indian Ocean after being dropped off by a larger ship.
They steamed up the Zambezi and then up the Shire River until they reached the waterfalls where they had to unassemble the boat and hire a large number of people to help them carry the boat a long way up river. Again they assembled it and proceeded up the Upper Shire through Lake Malombe and then into what is now Lake Malawi (previously named Lake Nyasa by Livingstone).
Now Cape Maclear is ‘backpacker-central’ in Malawi and most of those traveling through probably know nothing of it’s history. As well as seeing the start of modern medicine and education in Malawi Cape Maclear has had a varied history. It was once a playground for expats during colonial time and there was even a direct flight from London to Cape Maclear in the 1950′s – in a flying boat. Now there are no direct flights between the UK and Malawi at all. The BBC team who were doing a documentary on David Livingstone were gobsmacked when I told them of the London-Cape Maclear flying boat service.
These days getting to Cape Maclear involves an approximately 10 mile journey along a lonely dirt road through the peninsula after turning off the main road near Monkey Bay. You are surrounded by hills, rocks and vegetation on all sides and have the feeling that you are far from human settlement. The road itself is a bit rough. It is not that there are huge holes or deep gulleys – instead there are small regular ruts lying at right angles to your direction of travel. So your car, you and your engine and being rattled.
While driving along in the middle of this we passed two young guys who enthusiastically waved us down to stop. I could see a bucket and (wet?) earth with which they seemed to be fixing the road. We quickly concluded that they were either fixing the road on their own initiative and hoping to be paid by the occasional grateful motorist – it is not an area with heavy traffic… – or they were pretending to fix the road and were tricking motorists into coughing up some cash.At first we were suspicious but thought that they were probably genuine. It looked genuine.
On the way back a few days later we met the same people and this time were far more convinced that they really were fixing the road. We made a small contribution – but they were very happy. I asked if all / most / some / few drivers contribute to their work and they seemed to be saying that almost all drivers contribute something.
I regret not taking a photograph of them – we were in a rush to get on. All I have is a photo of some of the tops of the hills in that area.I thought it was interesting because in economics work that is done which benefits anyone around and which cannot be restricted only to those who pay – is not supposed to work. The classic example is the lighthouse. The lighthouse cannot charge ships for using it’s service as everyone who is at sea can see the lighthouse and there is no way that the lighthouse keepers can compel the ships to pay for the service. Therefore, the theory goes that the shipping companies will not pay for the lighthouse service, because they can all be ‘free-riders’ on someone else’s work. Therefore the lighthouse has to be paid for by the government and cannot survive in the private sector.
So, it seems as those these enterprising road-fixers have not read their economic textbooks. They should have been pessimistic about the prospects of being paid. Instead they seemed to be doing quite well, if their mood and enthusiasm was anything to go by.
So how come this private business works if economic theory says that it should not? Well, firstly there has to be some degree of trust – the motorists have to trust that these guys are genuine – in some societies I am sure that there would be some doubt about this. Certainly I was a bit suspicious at first. Second there has to be some goodwill or some feeling that one would like to contribute a fair price to a service that one is receiving – even though the motorist is under no compulsion to do so. Perhaps the motorist feels some social or moral obligation or perhaps because the voluntary donation is small compared with the means of anyone who can afford to drive a car means that there is a desire to contribute.
I went out at lunchtime today with Ruth to try to find the guidebook for walks on Zomba Plateau by Prof Martyn Cundy. Martyn Cundy was a colleague of my dad’s in the 1960′s and 70′s in Malawi and played a significant role in the development of the teaching of Mathematics in the UK and Africa. He studied at Trinity College in Cambridge and was awarded a PhD in quantum theory in 1932. I think I remember that my dad regarded him as a genius.
The owner of the Africana Bookshop told me that he thought that this book is out of print and he did not know anywhere that was still selling it.
Instead I looked around at old manuscripts, books and maps and eventually decided on ‘Guide to the Mulanje Massif’ by Frank Eastwood and ‘Blantyre Mission and the Making of Modern Malawi’ by Andrew Ross. There were other books and maps that I wanted to buy but I decided to space out these purchases so that it does not look as though I am spending a lot of money.
I dipped into the ‘Making of Malawi’ book and read that Ross and Rev Sangaya visited the 1,000 leading political prisoners in 1959 and they discovered that about 700 of these people were presbyterians. Ross set out to find out why the presbyterians were so involved in the dawn of the new nation and traced the history of the relationship between the early Scottish missionaries and the local people. The Scots played a central role in getting Britain to protect the land from the Portuguese and the Arab slavers. Later the Scots remained on the side of the local people as the condescending colonial powers blotted their copybooks. Throughout the whole story of this land is the story of education – the colonial authorities seemed to feel quite threatened by the idea of educated natives. I think that is probably one of the books to read if you want to find out why African-western relations are better here than in some other places.
Rev Chimesya dropped by and I showed him my purchases. He spoke approvingly of the Ross book.
We visited Dr Kim who is working at a prison which is also a farm. Dr Kim is from South Korea and there is a very interesting agriculture and prison joint venture between the Malawi Prison Service and a Korean charitable organisation called ‘Crops of Love’.
I had heard about Dr Kim and was keen to meet him. What I knew was that he was from Korea and was working in some way in ‘prisons work’. So when Rev Stanley Chimesya and Rev Ed Hoekstra invited me on their trip to see him I jumped at the chance. I thought (wrongly) that we were just going to meet him for a 20 minute chat somewhere close to where he is based. I did know that we had a reasonable drive to make as the prison is in near Thyolo. On departure Ruth pleaded with me “I want to go with daddy!”
The reverends were very happy for her to come along and I thought that it would help Amelia who has a tough job keeping track of Ruth while occupied with David.
A quick transfer of the child seat followed and we were off. It was good again to see Mulanje Mountain in the distance – what an impressive sight.
We arrived at the prison (not an office as I had expected) with a nice view of a river flowing past and beyond some new school buildings. “Those were built with money raised from the sale of crops” is something like what I thought Rev Chimesya said.
Anyway, the place itself looked good. It is an ‘open prison’ in our terminology. The sort of prison that no one escapes from – after all, the prisoners here are close to the end of their sentence.
Dr Kim explained that they are using modern farming methods and are giving the prisoners on the job training for an alternative to crime. They have 100 acres but elsewhere they have far more. Dr Kim is helping the prison service to improve their agricultural efficiency.
It was interesting to hear that the Malawi Prison Service and the Justice Ministry are very open to help and co-operation. It is typically Malawian for them to be welcoming and to view joint projects with outsiders as helpful. I asked if I could take photos and was told that I certainly could. The prison officers were there as I photographed Ruth listening to a solar powered radio and Dr Kim informed me that it is fine to put them on the internet.
We learned that Crops of Love are a Korean Christian charity – not government funded. I asked if it a presbyterian charity and was told that no, it is inter-denominational although Dr Kim is a presbyterian himself. We discovered also that Dr Kim studied at the same seminary in Philadelphia, USA and at the same time as my brother Keith. I think with a little jolt of the memory they will remember each other.
What happened next was undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. We saw all of the prisoners half run, half march past us through a door marked ‘Clinic’. I soon realised there was more in that building than the clinic. We entered through a side door marked ‘Malawi Seoul Church’ and I asked if it was a play on words.
Inside I then realised we were to have a meeting. Now, those prisoners can sing. Sometimes football fans discuss what stadiums have a good atmosphere – this place had a great atmosphere. Even Ruth seemed taken by the feeling – and she takes many things in her stride.
Ed Hoekstra and Rev Chimesya both spoke and I was introduced. Ed then got on the keyboard and taught the prisoners a song. That went down very well. There was something in it they responded to quite strongly. We were also treated to a lengthy bible verse recital by one of the prisoners and a performance by a prison choir. Interestingly the whole prison was present at this meeting – not just those who chose to attend a CCAP meeting. It was clear that the prisoners were not shy about taking part in such ‘religious activities’ – it did not look as though they had to endure any banter for it.
Afterwards we went to Dr Kim’s house to discuss various things and I was very impressed with what the Koreans and Malawians are doing together. As I understand it there is a great deal of agricultural potential in Malawi. On the long road back to Blantyre Ed talked about how Malawi had changed him. Malawi has a lot to give – come and see for yourself.
I returned this morning to Chichiri Prison with Rev Stanley Chimesya, the only full time prison chaplain in Malawi, and his Canadian assistant, Rev Ed Hoekstra.
I informed them that I was aware, via certain contacts that I have, that the prison chaplain’s work would be going up on the official Synod website very soon.
Of more interest however was the discussion en route about a new CD that is to be produced with the prison choir and using the Synod recording studios. Ed told me that the Synod international partners would be expected to buy 200 each – so that would include the Church of Scotland then… Well, I am not here via the Church of Scotland – I am merely a visitor in Malawi showing my wife and children where I came from. However, given my connections I might be expected to pass on some email addresses.
It appears as though the necessary permissions and agreements are coming through from the prison authorities and the recording people. Ed hopes that the CD will be available in the partner countries in time for Christmas.
At the prison itself when we arrived the meeting was already in full flow and we arrived to the sound of Chechewa hymn singing. I thought to myself that if you are the kind of person who likes the old style of Malawian singing rather than the new ‘contemporary style of worship’ then you could consider attending church in prison.
WEAK CHRISTIAN FAITH (and the STRONG)
The meeting however was not however a Sunday service but was a bible study and Rev Ed Hoekstra spoke on the passage where the disciples (who were also fishermen) caught no fish all night until early in the morning when Jesus, from the side of the lake, urged them to throw their nets on the other side. Much of what Ed spoke about was to do with obeying Christ’s commands and receiving blessing asked for (the catch of fish). He had a translator but I was impressed to hear that most of what he said was in Chechewa.
Given my weak Christian faith, however, I spent most of the time considering the long night of fruitless fishing that the disciples endured before they saw Jesus on the shore at daybreak. I thought that perhaps my life was a bit like that long night and wondered also about how the prisoners felt about their own ‘long nights of waiting’.
So during the questions I asked about this. I was thanked for the question later by Ed as he thought that this line of questioning provoked a lot of other related questions and discussion.
I did notice that the prisoners were able to cite Scripture (book, chapter and verse) in defence of their line of argument and I wondered how that would compare with some of the clergy back in Britain.
Sometimes I hear from westerners the view that Christianity in Africa or Malawi is shallow or lacks depth. I think when I hear that question again I will now challenge them to attend a meeting at Chichiri Prison and then come back to me with that same view.
There was a seriousness and sincerity about this meeting and a lack of ‘showiness’ for want of a better word. That is typical of Malawi of course but perhaps all the more so in the environment of a prison.
On the way back we discussed the music CDs again. Rev Chimesya mentioned that they would auction the first few CDs and I asked if those CDs would be personally signed by the prisoners and perhaps also the prison governor. Ed thought that was a good idea.
I was also asked to take a photograph of Rev Stanley Chimesya standing next to the 4WD vehicle that he uses to get to the more remote prisons. Money was raised very quickly for this in Canada and we need to send a picture.
I was asked to think about organising a link with a ‘prisons ministry’ in Scotland. This provoked a few ideas in my head. I thought it would be good but I am tempted to try and get a link going with Northern Ireland as well.
I am already imagining a visit to Malawi from ex-IRA and UDA prisoners. Much as I like attending these meetings, and appreciated as my attendance probably is, a visit from people who have direct experience of serving time may be even more interesting for the prisoners.
It is quite amazing that it has taken us this long to get down the road towards Mulanje.
Mulanje mountain in perhaps my favourite place in Malawi – it is a close run competition with Lake Malawi. My brother Keith was born at the foot of the mountain at Mulanje Mission Hospital in 1972, my father nearly died on Matambale (a peak on Mulanje Mountain) in 1965, I first got to the summit of Mulanje Mountain aged 8, Chambe Peak on Mulanje Mountain has the longest rock-climb in Africa, sadly we know someone who was killed on Chambe, the plateau is where Silas Ncozana had his famous encounter with a leopard and we would have great family holidays in the mountain huts on that great ‘island in the sky’. It is a different world up there with a different climate and vegitation. In the evenings you eat and play games by paraffin lights that create their own particular atmosphere. In Dedza recently I picked up a small box made of the unique Mulanje Cedar and the scent transported me back decades to those days.
Some people think that ‘The Shire’ in Lord of the Rings was an place and idea inspired after J R R Tolkein was climbed Mulanje himself many years ago. The Shire (different pronunciation) is of course the main river in Malawi. Most experts however disagree with this view – despite the idyllic other-worldliness of Mulanje Mountain.
However, we were not going up this mountain – I was simply getting carried away.
Sam tells me the story that he was overhearing a conversation between a group of Americans who had come to partner their church with a church in Malawi. Sam asked them why they were thinking of a wealthy church in Blantyre – they should go out into the rural areas and find a church that would benefit.
So off they went and eventually found Lisanjala – a church without a building. The Americans went home, raised some money and with the approx $58,00 USD (or about £35,000) or 38 gold coins in real money, they built a church.
Sam oversaw the project and it was built in 5 months. When we saw it we thought that it was quite impressive for that amount of money in that space of time.
The old meeting place has been left standing to remind people, and teach visitors, about the before and after. Another development thrown in with the church was a water pump.
At the same time as this initiative, in a perhaps related move, the government decided to build a village school in the same place – so there is very much a new look to Lisanjala.
The church service was partly fund-raising (for food and transport for the visiting Americans) and lasted four hours.
We had Ruth and David with us and Ruth was quite tired and this meant that for much of the service we were outside or listening at the window. (When my father was a minister in Malawi he would often talk about the packed rural churches that had more people outside the building listening at the windows than inside the church. he described scenes, which I saw as well of course, where every seat, space on the floor and even up to the steps of the pulpit would be full of church attenders). I have not seen anything like that since returning to Malawi – but the churches are full.
Anyway, the fact that we were outside allowed us to take photos and avoid most of the lengthy service.
We also saw tea growing around Mulanje – a first on this trip. I hoped that Amelia would be impressed by the imposing mountain next to us – I think that she was. I told her that we should be ‘up there’ – she agreed.
On several occasions since arriving in Malawi I have experienced something which has felt like a very helpful coincidence – usually meeting the right person at the right time.
Anyway, we went to the Mount Soche swimming pool on Saturday and chatted to the Azungu (westerners) sitting next to us. They were from Australia and had just arrived in Malawi to do some work with orphans. I think it is a day centre for orphans, there are huge numbers of orphans in Malawi (perhaps quite literally in the millions) because of AIDS – which is now on the decline here.
The usual way in Malawi is for children to be looked after by the extended family – aunts and uncles rather than being placed into orphanages. Although I think that is a good thing, the extended family being the preferred and typical option, I am not therefore against other ways of looking after orphans here – every person and circumstance is different and I have not visited the other orphan charities to see what they do, how and why. I think the alternatives are probably good and necessary also.
Anyway, I think that the work that this Australian family do is a support centre that works with orphans and their extended families – it is not an adoption thing.
Craig gave me his card and I saw that his name was ‘Manners’.
“Oh. I know a ‘Manners’ in Australia. He is a facebook friend of mine.”
(I am not a facebook friend collector – I think it is better to prune facebook friends actually. I have very few facebook friends who I have not met personally – there has to be a good reason like a lot in common and / or several close friends in common – to the extent that one might feel that one knows the other person quite independently of facebook).
They both gave me the kind of look which suggested to me that there are not many people by the name of Manners in Australia and there was a ‘go on’ look in their eyes.
So I said, “His name is Ron and he lives in Perth.”
“That’s my dad…”
We agreed therefore that ‘it is a small world’ and I decided to categorise this as a ‘Three Continent Coincidence’.
Had two interesting meetings today.
Firstly with Mr Sitolo, headmaster, and pupils of HHI Primary School. I was handing over letters from pupils at Elie Primary School in Fife. We posed for pictures beside a major local landmark (several Elie primary pupils had asked about landmarks). We also posed next to two of the four sewing machines that Elie had raised money for. The products of this hard work made in Malawi were sold later in Elie – so there is a market for these things in Scotland.
The second meeting was with Mr Mkandawire who is in charge of grounds and botanical gardens. I introduced him to a botanist who Amelia met recently. Together with five small children in tow we did a tour of the old botanical gardens and agricultural area set up by the first Scottish missionaries.
We also saw the coffee plants, still in existence, which are the parents of the coffee grown in Malawi. Tea in Malawi also started here.
No time to do a full report with pictures on either of these today. However, we have the material and we have the photographs so watch this space!
It was the first time I had dared take the family into the Shire Valley overnight (given the fearsome mosquito and malaria reputation down there). However, Lengwe is a very dry area and I was easily (and correctly) convinced that we would have less of a problem there than in Blantyre.We headed off early on Saturday so that we could do something else while down there and I thought we would try out Nyala Park. Nyala Park is not really ‘the wild’ as it is an area within one of the huge sugar growing areas owned by a large sugar company. However, it is a large area that is in most ways a bit like the wild except for the perimeter fence. We were given a map at the entrance. I did not count the number of ‘roads’ but I guess it would have been thirty – I am trying to quantify in some way how big the place is. Let’s say it is huge or massive or colossal on the scale of a zoo (and there is only one animal pen and you are in it with your car) but it is miniscule on the scale of a National Park or wildlife reserve. I suppose it is something like the shape of a square with a few miles (not many) from one side to another. We drove around for a while (after I had secretly discussed with the wildlife staff where the best places for spotting animals might be) and after a bit we spotted (or Amelia spotted and I identified) two sable! That was quite a surprise as I did not think that there were many of those in these parts. Amelia was very impressed and thought that they looked like something out of Narnia. Next there was a moment that I have been waiting for – the first sighting of a giraffe. We were in a heavily wooded area with a great deal of leaves and tree cover overhead when and round a corner and there is was. I think Amelia saw the other two or three giraffes several meters away to our right while next to the car on the left towered a quite awe inspiring sight. These are impressive creatures – there is something extraordinary about them. They stared down on us for a long while – clearly deep in thought.
From then we quickly saw a lot of zebra, nyala and other giraffes including the young of all three. It was a good trip but not, of course, as satisfying as seeing them in a real national park – but still quite impressive.
Before long we were in Lengwe for lunch. We had a very good deal for full board (three meals) and a night in (to me) very nice accommodation.
Brian, who we had met on the previous Easter Monday, met us and was again friendly, helpful and full of information and conversation. We soaked in the pool waiting for a late afternoon drive (Amelia was determined to see Buffalo – even if she has to imagine seeing them).
We set off on a different route to the one we had taken on Monday. I knew it would be less fruitful but it was interesting never-the-less. Brian warned us not too be too late as he would have to come looking for us otherwise and his vehicle was low on diesel. Of course I pushed my luck and as the light was failing we were delayed by the very fortunate sighting of a python. As I was driving along I thought to myself that the tree lying across the road looked quite like a snake – not for a minute believing of course. There are leopards in Lengwe but the idea of actually seeing one to me was just a joke – finding a python was in approximately the same category. (The great thing about seeing wildlife in Malawi is that there is a certain amount of unpredictability about it all – you get a sense of satisfaction from the accomplishment of seeing certain species.
Unfortunately the light was very dim and the serpent began to withdraw from the road. Taking a photo was a rushed job and we have two very bad photos of it and another taken speculatively with flash into the bush once it had escaped the car headlights.
The dinner was good and some of the slabs of meat very well sized. Joining us for the BBQ were five southern Baptist missionaries – one in the country long term and the others here for a week. At the other end of the table were a south African couple in mining in Mozambique (Tete) who had come to escape to the comparative paradise of Malawi for the weekend.
Later the American missionary told me his tale of fishing (wading in) in the Shire River when he was new to Malawi. My hair stood on end – I would not go near that river. A Malawian said ‘there is a crocodile coming’ and he and his family looked through the raging current to see a twenty foot crocodile speeding towards them. They all got away but were too terrified to collect their abandoned fishing equipment.
Next day I rose at five for my own sunrise drive (wife and kids more sensible) – it feels different and lonely at that time of day. I was determined to scout out a waterhole somewhere away from the road that Brian had told me about. I was nervous as I drove through the bush as it is a miles from the camp and the signs that a vehicle had once driven this way would sometimes almost disappear. I knew that if I lost this vague track I’d be lost. I did find it – but no wildlife and after this did not feel at all like driving again for a few hours and instead lazed around the pool.
Eventually Amelia’s determination to find buffalo and my rest resulted in a final trip where Amelia assured me that the very distant ‘large animals’ were in fact buffalo. I can’t comment – I don’t know. We did however make our way back to the remote waterhole I had earlier found and we found the elusive Kudu that I was interested in seeing.
After saying goodbye to Brian we headed back in time for a shower and joined the largely Azungu group at 5 in the building next to the old clocktower. Crispin was there and it was interesting to hear what he had to say. It was nice to see people but somehow I prefer the traditional Chechewa.
Later we received a call from Brian. Ruth had left her pink ‘princess’ bag at the lodge… There were tears before bedtime and Ruth told me that she did not want a monkey to take her bag away.
That was Sunday night and we then stayed in bed for 12 hours – I think I slept 11.
Today we are visiting Kelvin and Sue. Kelvin is from Australia and Sue is from Hertfordshire. They have a young daughter who has now made friends with Ruth.
We met them by chance at the ‘Food Court’ attached to the Malawi Sun Hotel. They could tell that we were looking for a table outside of the sun and most were taken so they invited us to theirs.
It turns out that Kelvin is building what will be by far Malawi’s most advanced and largest intensive care unit at the Seventh Day Adventist Hospital in Blantyre.
We had lunch with them in their flat today and have just had a tour of the ICU. I am not a medical (or medical equipment) person but I can tell that this is very impressive. Kelvin is basically building this all himself and is sourcing all the equipment required. Quite a lot has to be improvised for local conditions – including the temperature and air controls. Kelvin travels a lot to find all types and conditions of things and has taught himself all the regulations on import duties and so on. I think that a lot of the knowledge on medical equipment he learns on the job.
Before we came here for lunch this morning I went online and discovered that my dad has had a fall and has broken his hip. He is in surgery now in Dundee so our thoughts are distracted by that. My mother had been trying to contact me I heard (via an email from Ian). I think that the problem was that we were out in Lengwe National Park where we noticed a lack of mobile phone reception.
Kelvin in his work over a longer time period than this task in Blantyre has been a kind of travelling medical equipment person in Africa. This project to single handedly build an Intensive Care Unit is therefore different to living out of a 4WD. They are a very nice couple and he is very Australian and she very English in the best possible meanings of both.
I hope that they find a way of staying in Malawi after this is over. It will be an extraordinary achievement for people who are in effect volunteers. With their skills there is a great deal more value that they could add in Malawi!
We headed off to Zomba and Zomba Plateau on Saturday (9th) to meet the Mountain Club of Malawi people (I am keen to join).
On the way I kept my eyes peeled for Namikango (meaning: where the lions are) near Thondwe. Namikango is actually: where the Americans are – or where a particular group of American missionaries are. When we lived in Malawi the Shelbournes and the Albrights were there and I think they were some of our best friends. I and my brother Keith were being looked after there on the day that our youngest brother Ian was born. We climbed Mulanje and Sapitwa with the Shelbournes and spent many happy days at their house.
It was even easier to find than I thought and we introduced ourselves to the new residents and explained some of our history. They were very nice people and they welcomed us in for a chat and a cup of tea.
Namikango is one of those places that never changes. It was the same in 1995 as it had been when we were children and it seems to be the same now. The important thing is that the garden is the same – and it is.
One of my main motivations for stopping there was so that I could mention it on a facebook update. That will make a certain set of people very jealous….I would think.
In the Early Days (from David Livingstone onwards) and for most of the time until Our Time (ending 1981) there were a lot of Scots about. We were welcomed by the people here, we highlighted the horrors of the slave trade (and helped defeat it), we learned from some mistakes, we started health clinics, we learned from the people here, we translated the bible, we built with local people what is now a national monument etc etc. We have a shared history.
Now, there are a lot of Canadians about…and not a lot of Scots. We like them, the Canadians are happy, the Malawians welcome them…even though they ask us Scots where we have gone.
Anyway, one of the Canadians here is our neighbour (Bristish English spelling – Malawi English is British English), Ed Hoekstra.
I first met Ed and his wife at a wedding here 18 months ago when I was a best man. Ed was one of those officiating when Rev Kadawati married Ian and Carrie Tallach.
Ed is the Assistant Minister at St Michael’s and All Angels. He also supports the prison work and assists the Blantyre Synod Prison Chaplain. This work sounded very interesting and I asked to join him behind bars.
Actually, Ed talked about what he has learned from the prisoners and the questions that they ask. He said that questions he has never thought of, from the text, would come up in their prison bible study. It sounded to me as though he meant theological questions rather than ‘why me?’ questions. Malawians, on the whole, are not nearly as self pitying as many westerners.
I asked whether those in the prison bible study became Christians before or after being sent to jail. He said a some before, some after. Of course, I was not surprised. Only those hostile to Christianity seem to suggest that Christians are somehow supposed to be perfect and not subject to the failings of human nature.
In addition Ed helps with the Ndirande Disabled People’s Project which we visited the other week – actually we got a lift with Ed for that trip.
Sadly Ed and his wife and four of their five children will be leaving Malawi in a few months. Ed talked about a conversation over Skype with their eldest, in Canada, who asked them how they would cope with the change that life in the west will impose on them. The problem of apathy in the west was the particular point that Ed discussed – though we did discuss wider problems with living in Canada / UK – places like that.
I would like to blog about the other members of his family here – they all seem interesting in their own way. One of his daughters is a mid-wife at Mulanje CCAP Hospital, another is a volunteer teacher at HHI Secondary School, one or two is / are pupils at St Andrews International Secondary School.
I had an interesting chat with Rev Kay Day. She has an office close to the guest wing where we are staying and so I was curious to find out how she as an American finds Malawi.
We met previously when I was in Malawi eighteen months ago at a wedding. She was one of the clergy officiating at the ceremony at St Michaels and All Angels and I was the best man. I am sure she was curious as to why I had come back with my family and what we were thinking of seeing and exploring while we are here.
Rev Kay Day told me that she has three official responsibilities and one unofficial. Firstly she is the Chaplain for Training (ministers), secondly the administrator of Chigodi Women’s Centre and thirdly she is the associate minister at Limbe Church (my father was a minister at several churches in this region of Malawi, including Limbe). Her unofficial role is to help to facilitate visits for people from her home church (the Presbyterian Church in the USA).
Seemingly Chigodi women’s centre was built originally by a Scottish couple in the 1960s who intended to retire there. Sadly the husband died before they could enjoy it and the Scottish widow passed the property on to the church. It is used as a training centre for women and Kay believes that it has great potential as a retreat centre. That point interested me as I think of Malawi as somewhere that has great potential as a place for a retreat, rest and renewal for it’s overseas partners (and others…). I see our own visit as being something along those lines. Of course I also see Malawi as a beautiful country that can offer adventure and great holidays as well as very interesting lessons and insights to those who seek to explore and understand some of it’s fascinating history.
Her home church, the PCUSA, expects her to facilitate visits from anyone from her home church – which I think is a big church in a big country. Actually someone else called Linda Inglis (from Canada – an even bigger country (I have to say that in case any Canadian reads this)) has overall responsibility for international visits to Blantyre Synod from anywhere, including the USA, so they work together.
I told Rev Kay Day that my view is that international visitors should view Malawi as a place that will benefit them and they should not view themselves simply as givers of help / advice / direction / aid / teaching etc. She seemed to agree absolutely and showed me a very interesting itinerary for some visiting Americans. She said that all of her American visitors came away having gained a great deal more than they can give. She described Malawi as a place that gives people life transforming experiences. I saw her expression of this opinion to me not so much as preaching to the converted, more like a new convert preaching to Billy Graham. That’s not quite right of course – Rev Kay Day has been involved with Malawi for quite some time now. She told me that after her husband passed away she was persuaded to go on a trip to Malawi (which she was already involved with from overseas) and she thought that would be ‘an opportunity and adventure of a lifetime’ but instead led to her living in Malawi and adopting family here.
I hope that the Rev Kay Day and Linda Inglis allow us to learn and experience some of what they do in facilitating visitors. Leading visits to the mountains, The Lake and the national parks of Malawi sounds like a dream job to me.